Change that first, its a cheap part. You'll need to drain the coolant and disconnect the battery, then remove the throttle body and linkage, alternator, hoses, vacuum lines, cruise control linkage, air intake plenum, and air intake zip tube. I guess I am screwed because I just found out about the suit two weeks late. Push the pedal down and if your car does not react like it used to, pauses before acceleration or accelerates irregularly it might be a sign of a leaky gasket. I was basically told to take a hike. Coolant leaks should be addressed as soon as possible, in order to prevent them from becoming a greater issue. Installation is roughly the reverse of removal; consult a shop manual, as the intake bolts will need to be tightened in a very specific sequence.
I wonder if there is an epoxy or something to seal it up until I can afford the 900 dollars to replace it again. It is possible to fix the cracked manifold on your own but this is a temporary solution and a total replacement should be undertaken if and when necessary. I figured a few other storm observers might have had this problem also, whether or not it already had manifested or in this case, manifolded itself. You might be lucky and find the culprit before you inspect the gasket. Check your dip stick as well. He has the same exact coolant leak that my son had on his intake manifold.
You probably will need a new set of spark plugs as well. You probably have coolant leaking into the exhaust ports. I don't want to alarm you, however, I just replaced my son's intake manifold. So jb weld is some strong epoxy and will hold up for a long time depending on how and what you use it for. It is in the same exact area.
I don't care what any body says, you need them! Well, when I got there, no manifold. This leads to weaker explosions, which affects the speed of the pistons and the power of your engine. Select an engine part in the interactive diagram below to explore your engine and the important components that keep everything ticking over. There is a great write-up in the tech section about using a timing light and a vacuum gauge to tune your rig properly. Nothing to worry about she said. After removing alternater, filled water level to normal and pressure tested and ran engine for a while.
You will also need to remove the intake manifold from the engine and replace the gasket without any leaks. It is quite possible, that you have a leak in the same area. He replaced it, I was irritated at spending several hundred bucks for an out-of-warranty car repair, and that was that. However, it was leaking mostly at the thermostat base, where the aluminum base sits on the plastic portion of the intake manifold. The reservoir has to be full for you to see the coolant leak in the thermostat area.
Jim: Thanks for the additional info! Please tell us what dealership this is, on this forum, so their unscrupulous treachery can be exposed publicly. If the car idles too fast or even stalls completely. Coolant spewing out of the top. Stop your car immediately and let the engine cool. Instead of junking the car, I opted to replace the engine with a rebuilt engine and a new intake manifold, at a cost of approximately three thousand dollars. It continued to get worse.
I'd read some about the lawsuits, and it is indeed the bad plastic manifold. The coolant would also leak and run towards the back of the engine, giving a false impression that there was a leak at the back of the engine as well. It is responsible for the distribution of the combustion mixture and to each of the cylinder heads in the engine. As a result, it can crack and split without warning, especially at the front or rear. Check for any leaks in the manifold and if there is none then you are good to go. Such writing is absolutely, positively an expression of free speech and will stand up in any constitutional court, hands down, no question.
Anyway I recieved the lawsuit letter after I got my 96 fixed. It shows temps in real time. The intake manifold gaskets are some of the most important gaskets found on an engine. I'd wedge it in place while setting. Engine smoking after intake install? If your vehicle's intake manifold is cracked, the pressure can force air through the crack and cause the motor to make a loud whistling or hissing noise. I wanted to share another picture with you all. They are the worst American Car manufacturer in this respect.
Yeah, that little crack caused me all sorts of frustration when trying to chase down a vacuum leak. Sounds like the guy probaly never had the radiator flushed. The depths to which some of these places will sink to avoid serving the customer is astounding and pathetic. But the program allows you to submit a photocopy of the receipt, which you might be able to get from the files of the facility that did the repair. This noise was so damned loud that it garnered alot of attention to people on the street. Thankfully upon my last visit to Ford the service technician still has it in my account.
Check it out and let the rest of us know what you find. The 1st picture is of the bottom view of the intake manifold, specifically of the thermostat housing base. My criteria are: Roomy, big, wide wheelbase, low center of gravity, body-on-frame construction for optimal side crash safety. When there is too much air in the cylinders, not enough gas is let in. Hook it up to your brake booster line after you've got your engine up to operating temp. That has to be it! Probably another version of a plastic manifold.